‘Barbecued’ Brisket

2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil or vegetable oil, more as needed

1 whole beef brisket, about 5 pounds

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 or 2 large onions, chopped

2 cups ketchup

1/2 cup dry red wine or water

1/4 cup wine or rice vinegar

1 Tbsp Worcestershire or soy sauce

1 Tbsp chili powder, or to taste

2 cloves garlic, minced or crushed

Preheat oven to 300 degrees.

Heat a large pot or Dutch oven that can later be covered over medium-high heat for 2 or 3 minutes. When it is hot, add oil, swirl it around, then add beef. Sear meat for about 5 minutes on each side, seasoning with salt and pepper; when nicely browned, remove from pot. Turn off heat under pot for a minute.

Add onion to pot and cook, stirring over medium-low heat until softened, 5 to 10 minutes (if meat is very lean you might need to add a little oil). Add all remaining ingredients, stir, and cook for about a minute. Return meat to pot, nestling it in sauce.

Cover pan, put it in oven, and cook until meat is tender, at least 2 hours and probably closer to 3. When it is done, you can refrigerate it in its liquid for 1 to 2 days before proceeding.

Light a charcoal or gas grill or heat broiler; rack should be about 4 inches away from heat source. Drain meat and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill or broil on both sides until brown and crisp, just a few minutes. Meanwhile, skim cooking liquid off fat, warm gently, and use as sauce.

Yield: 8 or more servings.